Villa Maya
What we like about this one is that it puts you inside the forest rather...
The road out of Santa Elena runs past the usual Peten sprawl and then stops at a gate. Beyond it: three hundred acres of private reserve, a lagoon called Quexil, and twenty suites raised among the trees. Las Lagunas was built as a jungle hotel rather than a hotel with a garden, and the difference shows in the sound, which is howler monkeys at dawn from the island across the water and very little else. The suites face either the lagoon or the canopy, each with a jacuzzi on its own terrace. Guests arrive in ten minutes from the airport, or by boat if they ask.
Peten is the reason most travellers come to Guatemala, and for years the choice was a lodge near the ruins or a room in Flores. Las Lagunas offers a third answer: a five-star house inside a reserve, close enough to Tikal, Yaxha and Uaxactun to do all three from one base. The scale helps. Twenty suites means the pool is never crowded and the restaurant remembers what you drank last night. And the reserve is not decoration: the Monkey Island tour comes with the room, and the spider monkeys are wild.
The hotel sits on the Quexil lagoon, west of Lake Peten Itza, ten minutes from Mundo Maya International Airport at Santa Elena. Tikal is roughly an hour by road, which makes the sunrise trip feasible without a pre-dawn transfer from the island. Yaxha, quieter and set above its own lakes, is about the same distance east. Flores, with its painted houses and lakeside bars, is a short drive for dinner. What the location really gives you is the reserve itself: no neighbours, no traffic, and a shoreline you can walk before breakfast.
Price: Luxe
Vibe: Jungle, quiet, low-lit, unhurried
Rooms: Twenty suites in three categories, Waterfront, Master and Waterfront Master, all with a private jacuzzi on the terrace and a view of either the lagoon or the canopy
Best For: Couples, Tikal-bound travellers who want a base rather than a bed, photographers
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: The infinity pool, set so the water line meets the Quexil lagoon with Monkey Island beyond it
Dining: Restaurant serving international and Guatemalan cooking, with breakfast a la carte included in every suite
Amenities: Spa and wellness centre, infinity pool, sauna and hot tub, private nature reserve of around three hundred acres, on-site museum of archaeological pieces and art, heliport, boat tours
Attractions: Monkey Island on the Quexil lagoon (included with the room), Tikal about an hour by road, Yaxha and Uaxactun within reach, Flores island town for an evening
The twenty suites divide into three categories and the difference is mostly about deck. Waterfront suites, the largest group, look across Quexil at Monkey Island from a terrace with its own jacuzzi. Master suites sit higher, on a secluded deck that takes in both jungle and water. Waterfront Master suites are the biggest, with a terrace wide enough for a sofa and a dining table. All of them run between roughly six hundred and nine hundred square feet, all take a king or a queen bed, and all come with the Monkey Island tour and breakfast.
The infinity pool is the picture everyone takes, and it earns it: the edge is set so the water reads as continuous with the lagoon. The spa sits back in the trees and runs treatments through the afternoon, which is the right time for them, since ruins here are a morning activity. The oddest and best touch is the museum, a small avant-garde room of archaeological pieces and art assembled on site. It is not a lobby display, and it is worth twenty minutes.
Mundo Maya International Airport is ten minutes away, which is the single strongest practical argument for this hotel: flights from Guatemala City land in under an hour and you are through the gate before the group buses leave Flores. The hotel arranges guided trips to Tikal, Yaxha and Uaxactun, and the early departure for the Tikal sunrise is easier from here than from the island. Boat transfers and a heliport handle anyone arriving another way.